It’s no secret that we have fallen hard for the surfing bug. Who would have thought this family of London kids would take so easily to the waves?! There’s no going back now. We’re surf obsessed. My auntie Laura came to visit a few weeks ago and she managed to snap some photos of everyone enjoying their new favourite pastime.
Of course, enthusiasm doesn’t equate to skill. We have much to learn and we’re enjoying that process. Instead of travelling over the school holidays, we stayed in our little slice of paradise and spent nearly every afternoon in the water. Quin and Marlow made the biggest improvements. Quin, who until recently, has been timid in the waves, gained so much confidence over the summer. He’s now a committed long boarder. And Marlow, who doesn’t have any issues with confidence, simply got better at riding waves all the way to the shore, after a little push from Michael (note his concentration in the photos).
Even I caught the surf bug. After two years watching from the beach, I decided it was time to get out and discover what all the fuss was about. More than anything, I was excited to paddle around on a board, just me, no children, no baby — a chance to unwind and get some time all to myself. Getting exercise and building strength was a bonus. And of course the adrenaline rush of catching waves! I got a new pink surf board for Christmas, which gave me the push I needed. I figured even if I can’t catch a wave, I can look like I know what I’m doing! 🙂
In the past couple weeks, the swell has picked up and the waves have been notably bigger. Michael and Easton, the bravest surfers, have enjoyed these bigger waves. It’s really been wonderful to watch Easton out in the surf, becoming more and more confident, making it all look so effortless as he turns up and down on the waves. He even made it into a barrel for the first time a few weeks ago. Apparently that’s a big deal in the world of surfing. More for me to work on, I guess…
More than anything, I’m so happy we’ve found a sport that we all love and can experience together. Some of my favourite moments are when I’m sitting on my board waiting for a wave and one of my kids paddles up next to me. How wonderful to enjoy the ocean together!